Whales, and Up Against The Wall, America.

What could all this possibly mean? Well, let's try to bring you all up to speed. Lennox Head campsite is now two nights behind us. We enjoyed our time in Lennox, taking in the chance for more coastal sightseeing at the viewpoint on the headland. We were lucky enough to observe more whale activity in the waters a couple of km off shore. Given the reports that we were coming to the end of the whale migration season, we are happily taking any chance we can to see more whales. It seems that this area is ideal at the moment.
It appears that Lennox Head has the reputation of being  Byron Bays quieter cousin. Not as busy. Just as clean and tidy, but with only a reasonable smattering of backpackers. There seems to be still a strong local sense of community in this town, despite the thriving aussie tourist industry which is something that becomes very apparent when travelling through the bustling town of Byron. More on Byron later perhaps.
Other things about Lennox, well, like many of the coastal view towns, ther are lots of really nice houses. Holidays homes, second homes, weekend places, call them what you want. Much more in the way of tourist development might spoil this small town. It seems to have the balance just right. For the moment at least.
Leaving Lennox, we head back South along the coast, only for a little while to the viewing point next to Lennox called the Pat Morton Lookout. Here we had our next sigtings of whales out on their migration journey south. Also, there is access to a small, but nice point break to retreat to when the longer sandy beaches are perhaps a bit blown out or crowded.
Our journey then took us to our next stop, where we would stay for the next two nights. Not far from Lennox, further North along the coast, you come to the mecca for backpackers, Byron and Byron Bay. First stop, lightouse. Towering high above Wategoes beach, the lighthouse gives direction and reference to passing ships, and you might be forgiven for saying whales too! This is where we have witnessed whales in full breach. And not just one either. We think we saw two distinct groups of whales. Straight out from the most Eastern point of mainland Australia, we saw whales blowing and some tail slapping on the surface. Around to the Byron side of the lighthouse, we saw whales breaching with tail and fin slapping, seemingly much more active than the first group. We followed these whales as they made their way around the ligthouse head where they started to fully breach. Starting with the cow, she fully came out of the water, and even at several km looked absolutly massive. Through the camera lense, i could see two calves breaching next to her. Those too, coming fully out of the water. Certainly a site i will remember for a long time. I just hope the photos come out! But this wasn't the end of our marine wildlife viewing. On another point on the Byron side of the lighthouse, a pod of dolphins, much closer into the land, were playing in some surf next to an offshore reef. The pod was made up of around 15 to 20 dolpnins, sometimes jumping, sometimes playing in the waves, but generally always in a quite tight group. As an introduction to Byron Bay, this wasn't a bad way to start!
We made our way back through Byron and out towards Tyagarah. Now, Tyagarah is not really marked on many maps. It gets a mention as a place name in the lonely planet, but this is where we were to spend our next two nights. It was time to leave the comfort of the campervan, for the luxury of a proper bed for two nights. We were staying with Jane and Craig, relations to Ali, on their small hillside farm. We also later met with Sally who came up to the farm to see us. From the outset, they were the epithome of kindness and generosity. After a guided tour of the farm by Craig and some warnings on snake awareness, we were joined by his wife Jane on the veranda of their lovely house with views out across the countryside. Later, sally joned us and Ali renewed her aquaintence with her family members, whilst I got to know these lovely people.
Craig is an accomplished author with many published works to his name, not to mention interviews for various newspapers and press. Jane, an accomplished climber in her days working in nursing in the UK, and Sally also training and working as a nurse in the UK. Without wanting to sound gushy, these people have been so kind to us during out short stay. We ate and slept the first night at their house. The next morning, we woke to a spendid breakfast. Breakfast seamed to last for ages, and was finished by talking about organising lunch! Anyone who finishes breakfast by suggesting and organising lunch is brilliant! We talked, and ate, and talked and ate through the most entertaining and engaging coversations. Craig had booked us in for lunch at the Byron Beachside Cafe where we were also joined by Billy and Amy. The beach cafe is tucked away in a quiet corner of Byron Bay, but is busy and bustling. It has lovely views out over the beach and the surf. Its setting is simply superb.
After lunch, Ali and I were taken by Sally for a stroll around the town of Byron. It become obvious by spending time with this people, that eventhough Byron is now very much a haven for backpackers and people travelling and working through their gap years, that it still remains a very special a meaningful place to the people who have lived there for decades. They see through all the visitors, and still see the beauty of the bay, for what it is and what it means to them. This is so good, and something quite special.
Ice creams consumed, Sally took us back to the farm where it was siesta time :-). The first time since we had been on the road that we were able to have an afternoon kip! What else are holidays for.
That evening, we went down to Sallys house. Sally insisted that it was her turn to cook for everyone, and she produced a lovelly morrocan type dish with cous cous, and a lemon pudding that was lovely. As well as a good cook, Sally also has a very good voice too. This was demomstrated to us when Craig took his place at the piano and started playing some blues, and Sally joined in.
I could go on for quite some time typing away in this blog of all the enjoyment and memories had and made during these two short days with these remarkable people, but I won't. These will remain with us for a very long time, and will be kept by us.
This morning was our last morning on the farm with everyone, and we were treated to breakfast and lunch before we made our way away from Byron Bay on the short trip past the Gold Coast towards Brisbane. It was a bit of a wrench for me personally leaving Jane, Craig and Sally this morning. The impact they have made in the short time I have known them is amazing. If the three of you ever read this blog, I say again, a big thankyou for everything, for putting us up and feeding us for our stay, for introducing us to the Byron Beachside Cafe, and to Craig and Jane for the gift given to us on our last morning with you. We hope to see you all again very soon.
That brings us on to the rest of today. We've made our way up the coast and time in our little campervan is begining to run out. With the bulk of the driving behind us, it was time to link up with some more friends. Tonight was the turn of Ruth and Neil. They live to the South of Brisbane and kindly took the time to track us down on our campsite here near the gold coast. Its been just over a year since we saw each other last, when Ruth left her role in PGL to return to her native Australia, dragging her man Neil kicking and screaming with her (hardly!) With the Gold Coast on a couple of junctions down the highway, they picked us up and headed down there looking for a parking space. Big spikey building located, park the car next to that, easy to find. Job done. Its been good to catch up with them both, but the year really has flown past and it seems like only weeks ago since we were all together in Ross Vegas.
Did you know, in the Gold Coast, pairs of young girls clad in gold bikinis and not much else walking the streets looking at parking meters and topping your parking meter up if they can see your time is up or running out so you don't get a parking ticket. I wonder if we could get this to work in Ross Vegas?
So, thats a catch up and a half. The last 3 days in one post. Hoefully most of the higlights are in there. Tomorrow, we track down Cara, who can paddle a raft, shoot you, patch you back up and study whilst bringing up a family all at the same time, and prepare for our final night in the campervan before we leave it behind in Brisbane and catch our plane to Adelaide.

Hello Possums (said in a bad Dame Edna Everidge type accent)

Mmm, where to start...
Time for a bit of a review and catch-up. Time has kind of ran away with us really whilst on this road trip. We've covered a fair few hundred km in these last few days. So, the last time you heard from us was when we had left the Hunter Valley with beer, cheese, chocolate and wine in hand.
Now, we were givem such delightful options for turn offs during our trip up Pacifi Highway 1. Such place names as Swansea, Newcastle, Singleton, Stroud, Gloucester and Tamworth all were available, but for some reason, just didn't sound too appealing. I can't quite put my finger on why though... Leaving the Hunter, we started off towards our next stop, Tuncurry, which you may or may not find just North of Forster. Now, I say, may or may not.... we're finding that the aussie road maps we've been provided with are not really what you might call detailed, or explicit maybe. I think 'a roug guesstimate' is more appropriate. Nevertheless, Ali 'Sat Nav' Hill was on the case. Life on the Pacific Highway is much like any other dual carrigeway to be honest. With the exception of warnings for Koalas, Kangaroos, Wombats, Wild Cattle and loose horses. To make the trip a bit more pleasant, the aussies have labelled up various tourist loops that take you off the highway and out to several places of interest along the way which you wouldn't normally go visit. Generally, there will be some hidden gem or view point somehwere, some local amenities, and bit of bush and roadkill, and then back out onto the highway. It was on such a tourist loop that we made our next stop, on the shore of Wallis Lake. The exposed position of the campsite on the shore made it a windy night, and a bit rainy. Little were we to know of what had been unleashed on the residents of Sydney until we heard it on the radio the next morning and via good old FB. To think we were sunbathing on manly beach a few days before, then after we left, storms, snow, wind and lightening hit withsome ferrocity. Ah well.
Waking to this news in Tuncurry, the resolve to start heading Northwards away from such weather was strengthend. Bacon butties and coco pops consumed, we packed off and headed North.
Now, aussies and campervans.... Not so much inter-campervan waving here between the hire campervans in comparison to those in New Zealand. Not sure why, but one thing must be said. I think the locals prefer the caravan approach instead of a good old campervan. Actually, prefer is a bit weak. They love them! Not necesarily big, but millions of them around the place. Certainly seems like the holiday of choice. One good thing though, they know how to tow, and they dont hold up the traffic. I feel Jeremy Clarkson may almost be impressed even!
We rejoined the higway south of Taree and started clocking up the km. Our first stop of the day was on a tourist loop south of Port Macquarie. We had several stops around this loop, at Lake Cathie and then a nearby beach where some bloke was offering Camel rides for tourists. Thing is, it was quite out the way so who knows how he made his trade work. To be honest, we didnt see the camels. What we did see was a board in the sand and a dozen or so cycle helmets and an empty cattle waggon next to the beach. I assume that was him. Very random. Port Macquarie lighthouse was next on the agenda. Lovely spot. Very windy. Back on the highway north of the town, passed Kempsey and another detour to Scotts Head. This is where we decided to have lunch, and where, perhaps the most memorable time so far was spent.
First sigting of the day was 4 foot guana on the side of the road. He was a big lad, but unfortunatly, with traffic behind, it wasn't the best of paces to come to a screaching halt to inspect further. Gutted! Whilst eating lunch in our van, and dreaming of riding the waves like the surfers on the beach beneath us Ali looked a bit more distracted than normal. Then declared the sighting of a whale on the surface of the ocean, a mile or two out from the shore. It didnt take long for the sandwich to take a back seat, along with everything else lunch like. Binnies were scrambled for, lenses were changed on the camera and positions at cliff edge were taken up. Sure enough we saw whales. We think two distinct groups on their migration path for the summer. We couldn't see what type they were, but I think i might have picked some out on the camera. During our time looking out, we also two pods of dolphins, much closer into the coast, just beyond the surfers. Perhaps 8 or 10 in each pod. Tidy :-) Once again, back out on the highway and we made our way straight through Coff Harbour and out the other side following signs for Woolgoola, and then Emerald Beach. At this latest of the Big 4 sites, we checked in to our pitch with nothing more than a bit of bush between us and the beach. When we checked ina reception, we were asked if we had seen any Kangaroos yet. We said yes and were promptly told that we migt see a few more tonight. Well, if you can't see a 5 foot kangaroo within 4 feet of where you are sitting, then there is something wrong. It was brilliant. Two juveniles, a female who was being courted by a big male. Wherever the female went, the male followed.... and the female came right to the side of where we were sitting at our pitch. Tidy :-) Lots of photos were taken, and then came the invasion of the black turkeys, one of which prooved to be rather territorial, and some cookaburras and parakeets. Tidy :-) We look forward to more of this type action when we get to KI.
This brings us to this morning, waking up at Emerald Beach and packing the van up before driving around 200 meters around the corner for coffee on the beach. Not a bad way to start the day. We headed in land with the free way taking us towards Grafton before directing us back to the coast again. After a double brekkie this morning with one on site and another at the coffee shop overlooking the beach, we opted to give lunch a wide berth. Instead, w left the higway on another loop and headed for Evans Head just south of Ballina. At the mouth of the river, Evans Head has a lookout over more surf beaches, free to use BBQs and all sorts. Again, well out the way of any touristic trappings and just generally a nice place to chill. Then, onto our final leg for today, coming to Lennox Head, South of Byron Bay. This is the first time we have ventured off Big 4 territory, and we're not dissapointed. A good site with everything you need and a massive surf beach.
Photos here show all sorts along they way, including a banana, a prawn, beer, beaches and a windy selfie.
Stargazing last nigt was brought to me by M7 and the Butterfly Cluster in the constellation of Scorpius.

G'day! How are ya?

Not much time to put into words what we've been up to the last 24 hours, so here's the day in pictures :-)